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IN
THE 16'th CENTURY BORGO GIUSTO
WAS CALLED SOCCOLOGNORA
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In
the 16th Tuscany, names of cities, villages and
hamlets sounded differently than today. So even Borgo Giusto,
dating back from those days, bore a different name: Soccolognora;
just as Lucca was Luca, Garfagnana was spelt Carfagnana,
and Versilia was Versilla. Tuscany was named Tuscia as shown
in this engraving on copper made by Ortelius in 1601, and
found by us amoungst old documents. Today Borgo Giusto,
named after the Giusti family, who settled there first,
is a faithful rebuilding, stone by stone of old Soccolognora.
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THAT
SHOT OF PUCCINI'S IN BORGO GIUSTO
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"Celle!
It is my dream
to see the Spanish broom once again and
fully enjoy its soft fragrance
" Giacomo Puccini's
biographers note the musician's love for Celle, the little
town the maestro was born in, a stone's throw from the town
of Partigliano. But there are few, except for our forebears,
who used to tell the story on winter evenings in front of
the fire, who know that Giacomo Puccini was a madcap and as
a youth was a great lover of hunting. Around 1876, as an eighteen-year-old
he had formed a great friendship with the Giusti family of
Partigliano, and together with a good number of the family's
seven brothers, all quite close in age, Giacomo went hunting
for woodcocks, blackbirds and thrushes, birds our hills have
always been full of. Anyway, listen to what happened one day.
Pia Giusti, daughter of Giuseppe, one of the seven brothers
who lived in Cà di Giusto, relates that Puccini had
just arrived in Celle from Lucca, where he had spent his vacation.
Anxious to go and see his friends, as was his wont he climbed
up the hill that separates Celle from Partigliano and crossed
the Pedogna river. Giacomo Puccini was liked by everyone,
and in fact usually the brothers took turns lending him a
shotgun. The crew of young Giustis, were amusing and lively
company, besides being numerous: They were: Giosuè
(1841), Calebbe (1842), Giuseppe (1844), Gamaliele (1847),
Noè (1849), Saulle (1851 and Giobbe (1853).
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Well then, that morning it was Giobbe who lent his muzzle-loader
to the future maestro, but in the general enthusiasm over
the outing, Puccini, slinging his haversack over one shoulder
and kidding around with the happy crew, fired off a shot
from the sixteen-gauge shotgun that he was holding. Luckily
this loud shot inside the house on the top floor did no
more than make a big hole in the tile roofing! Although
more than a century has passed, while the houses were being
reconstructed we found the tile concerned, with the hole
in it still stopped up by a rag (so that at least it didn't
rain inside the house), because the Giusti boys had left
it where it was in order to show it laughing to everyone
and say "Take a look here at what that crazy Giacomo
did!". Lena's house is where Puccini produced this
performance of his, not actually musical, but anyway a loud
one! The great musician in fact loved to spend his evenings
in our Borgo too, where the Giusti family brought him to
visit the families of the peasants who worked for them.
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A
RECONSTRUCTION THAT TOOK FIVE YEARS (1995-2000)
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In
the seventeenth century when the first houses began to be
built one right next the other, a small settlement was formed
criss-crossed by narrow alleys and flights of stairs that
gave on the minuscule piazza.. All around, beyond the terraces
formed from small plots of land where the peasants cultivated
their grapes and olives, there were the chestnut groves,
which existed then too, very green in the fine season of
the year, and tending toward yellow and brown tones in Autumn,
when the chestnuts in their burred husks had by then fallen.
During the first few years of the century the calm and regular
life of the Borgo began to undergo its first changes owing
to emigration, in particular towards England and Scotland.
Little by little, the village was almost wholly abandoned.
Those who were the last to live there, some fifty years
ago, while much of Italy was undergoing industrialization,
definitively forsook it in search of jobs that were less
hard and more remunerative than farm work, seeking too an
existence that was more convenient and comfortable in the
modern houses of the nearby towns. There are only a few
who still today remember the village's original structure
and the people who gave it life. When finally all the houses
had been restored, using the characteristic light-colored
stone with which the whole village had been built at the
beginning, and baptized by the names of those who had lived
in them up to the last, the Borgo came back to life, almost
by magic. And thus it is that still today the simple old
story goes ahead of those who lived there: Ettore Giusti,
founder of the family that first installed itself there,
and Giosy and Tosca and so many others.
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The
reclamation work, started in 1995, at once showed itself
to be an exhilarating challenge: the relatively short time
that had passed from when the houses had been abandoned
had not succeeded in inflicting any irreversible damage
on the small settlement and the discovery of a spring of
water in the woods was at once taken as an optimistic augury
for the life that was being taken back up. It was decided
to outfit the dwellings with all the by now obligatory modern
comforts without modifying the originality of the arrangement
of the interior spaces. This is one reason why the baths
presented among the biggest technical problems; but, where
cost was not considered, in some dwellings they were set
up in real rooms, even if at the price of some loss of space.
Another enterprise was to restore the houses' stone sinks
and their braziers and fireplaces, keeping them original
but making them perfectly functioning. Whole interior walls
of fair-face stone were conserved, they being treated with
highly advanced procedures. The foundations were strengthened
using expensive technologies that left no visible trace
of their operation. For the heating, the principle of the
fireplace was not strayed from, a huge centralized hot water
heater fired by wood but managed by a computer being installed,
to
permit checking the data on each individual dwelling, yet
at the same time in full respect for the environment.
And the history of Borgo Giusto village goes on.
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GETTING
MARRIED IN BORGO GIUSTO
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Holding
a wedding ceremony in our Borgo offers many great advantages
both because of the originality of the "location"
and because of the numerous services that advantage can
be taken of. The wedding can be celebrated in the little
church of Partigliano, particularly intimate and cosy; there
is the entire seventeenth-century village with numerous
apartments at the guests' disposal, an excellent luncheon
can be served in the local hosteria, but most especially,
there is the extraordinary setting provided by the nature
of the place to act as backdrop to the photographer's shots.
Of course the car placed at the bride's disposal is a Jaguar
from the fifties or sixties or a 1956 Mercedes Cabriolet
or a 1934 four-gear Balilla. Best wishes!
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Visit
the farm at Ca' di Giusto
from vine- to olive-harvest |
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The traditional gathering at Ca' di Giusto at vintage time
took place again this year with our guests enjoying the
goings on under the large gazebo, with tastings of local
produce such as cheeses, Tuscan salami, and sweet olives.
Available now are visits to the wine cellar to taste the
"novello" of 2001 with homemade sweets. The next
appointment is for the olive-harvest. When ripe, guests
may take part in the harvest, and enjoy "bruschetta"
(fresh country bread gently smudged with extra virgin olive
oil) and other local specialties) Have fun!
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